Handling Homeowner Voyeurism

Clients often like to watch you do your job. This isn?t always a problem ? some simply like to see What's being done or how it's being done to satisfy their own curiosity. However, a client that literally hovers over your shoulder while asking millions of questions is very disruptive to your workflow.

If a homeowner is hovering because They are afraid you'll damage their home, you might spend more time assuaging fears than you will working. Even worse, if your client is a weekend warrior DIY-er, you might find yourself subject to a lecture on the ?right? way to do things.

Finally, some contractors just work best when there's no one watching over their shoulder. If you can?t handle homeowner voyeurism, there are a couple ways to address it.

Point Out Safety Concerns

Whether repairing a damaged load-bearing wall, putting an addition onto a house or merely replacing a few roofing shingles, contractors are usually working in a dangerous place. As a professional, you know these hazards well and know how to avoid them or minimize the risks ? a homeowner doesn?t. You know the importance of having the appropriate personal protective equipment on hand ? and when and how to use it ? most clients Don't.

Explain to your clients that entering your work area poses a safety hazard to everyone. The clients are at risk from hazards ? if your attention is on the client?s questions and their safety, it compromises your own safety and that of your crew. If anything happens on site, to either the homeowner or your crew, you're the one in trouble, not the client.

This works for some homeowners who take safety very seriously. Not all do, so if your client seems disinclined to quit peeping at your work, add some incentive by pointing out that any fines levied by the Occupational Safety And Hazards Administration (OSHA) because there's an improperly protected person on site will be passed onto them and reflected in the final bill. When reason fails, money talks.

Set the Ground Rules

If you're not comfortable telling your client to (politely) buzz off, give them an opportunity to ask questions and observe, but on your terms. Explain that you need to concentrate while you're working, but would be happy to answer any questions before the day begins or after your work is finished.

Homeowner anxiety frequently accompanies all the variables involved in a home project. How much personal upheaval will this job entail? Is anything going to go catastrophically wrong? What's going on with their house ? probably the biggest investment they?ve ever made? If you can preempt those fears by explaining to nervous clients what you're doing and by proving you're willing to answer questions and concerns, it might stop the hovering before it'starts ? or at least minimize it to a more bearable level.

If a homeowner still wants to observe, set up rules for doing so: they have to be a certain distance away from the action and not right in the thick of things. By putting them at a distance, they get what they want and you get a little breathing room.

You Are the Professional

When it'seems like a client doesn?t just want to watch, but wants to give advice on every step of the process, it's hard not to get irritated. After all, you're the professional and you know what needs to be done and how best to do it. Remind your client of this fact, but check any sour feelings, bitterness or attitude at the door before you do so.

Your client hired you for a reason. Maybe you came highly recommended, you had the best rates or your reputation is well earned. Whatever the reason, the client chose you and signed a contract. it's your job to do the work, not theirs. All of these points bear repeating when you've got a ?guy with a hammer? client who thinks he?s Bob Vila.

You Don't want to create bad blood, but you must set some ground rules about accepting suggestions from your client, if at all.

Create a List of Homeowner and Contractor Responsibilities

People love paperwork, so a list of what that your client can expect from you and what you expect from them can go a long way in clearing up any ambiguities lost in the legal-speak of the official contract. Much like some hospitals have a ?Patient?s Bill of Rights? posted in each room, you can hand your clients a copy of the ground rules.

Think, in a general sense, what you expect from clients. Certainly, you want them to bring up concerns or problems, but you also want them to approach you at a time when you're not working.

Consider the homeowner?s point of view ? what do they want from you? Setting up and maintaining honest, two-way communications about the job?s progress, concerns or budget is certainly a reasonable starting point. Hand out printed copies of the ?rules? to your client and crew when the job starts. Hopefully, the client will refer to this document whenever the itch to drill you about the differences between a band saw and a miter rears its ugly head ? especially if you're perched on the top rung of an extension ladder.

Should You Supply Your Workers with Tools?

Contractors depend on both innovative and well-used tools to meet their needs on the jobsite. Whether its performance they can trust or a product that outlasts the competition, tradesmen seek out tools that help them get the job done faster.

While some contractors are willing to equip their workers with the basic tools used on every job, others require workers to purchase their own, which can be a burden for someone just starting out in the field.

While this practice is usually a matter of each contractor?s business policies, most workers are commonly required to supply their own basic hand tools while the contractor supplies the job site with the heavier, more complicated (and expensive) power tools. Many times, tool policies are affected by the size of the work force and union regulations, something we?ll take a look at.

Equipped or Not

While some contractors prefer workers provide their own hand tools because they tend to take better care of them as opposed to using company tools, there's always the chance that the worker may go the cheapest route and show up with tools that are not constructed well enough to successfully perform the tasks They are designed for.

There are two ways to ensure that the right tools are purchased and well cared for:

Contractors who prefer all their workers use the same equipment often provide a standard list of tools to new workers, which includes all the specs and brand names.

On the other hand, some contractors prefer to supply their workers with tools of their choosing. In addition to being aware of the quality of the equipment, the contractor has much better control over the care and maintenance of the tools.

Tool Rules

In small contracting companies with no more than one or two employees, the rules about using one?s own tools may be somewhat relaxed, especially if a worker has his or her own fully stocked work truck. In that case, allowances are often made in the event of a tool breaking on the job ? the expense of replacing a broken saw blade or hand tool will cost the contractor far less than supplying a worker with an entire set of power tools.

Large contracting firms employ a large, often unionized, group of workers ? all of whom need tools. Depending on the union agreement, all tools ? hand, power, and specialty ? are often provided for workers. Some companies easily spend tens of thousands on company tools, equipment and technology in order to keep a competitive edge. It makes financial sense to equip workers with all the necessities because some of that technology allows for easy tracking of tool inventory and usage.

Tool Policies

While many contracting firms do allow workers to use their own tools, some require the worker to sign off on the company tool list, making it clear (in writing) that they are responsible for the maintenance, repair or replacement of their own tools. Other contractors will repair or replace damaged tools unless there is obvious evidence of carelessness or neglect.

A large number of contractors have a policy in place to help out new technicians with the initial cost of tools, allowing them to gradually pay back the money through a number of paychecks. Some companies even offer their workers opportunities to win new tools through company contests or drawings.

One of the more inventive methods of rewarding workers who have their own tools is offering different levels of pay, partly based on job skills and partly based on tools owned. For example, a worker who owns his or her own trailer full of tools (and can use them) is worth more to the business than someone who needs to have tools provided to him.

A possible investment in the future involves buying a full set of hand and cordless tools and a tool belt for a new worker on the condition that if they complete say, one year of service to the company, they'll own the tools outright. This not only provides them with a major incentive to stick around, it puts the worker on the job immediately with no out-of-pocket investment on their part.

Put the offer in writing and have both parties sign it to keep it legal and above-board. Giving someone a break while providing training right from the beginning is often the best way to end up with a loyal, well trained worker who will provide you with years of expert service.

A Final Word

Whether or not you prefer to supply your workers with tools or not is a personal and business decision. However, remember that an employee is not required to invest in an employer?s business, while the investments an independent contractor makes in tools, equipment and supplies are for his/her business ? not yours. So taking the ?my crew, my tools and my rules? road or the ?do your own thing? route is entirely up to you.

All About Grout

While grout is simply used to fill in the space between tile joins, its appearance and durability play a large part in the life of a tile installation. Proper care and maintenance of grout not only keeps it looking its best, but also lengthens the life of the tile installation and ensures that the job stays done ? without a need to be re-done ? for a long time to come.

The most important part of grout selection and care is knowing what type of grout will work best for the needs of the project, especially if there's grout already in place.

Types of Grout

Cementitious grout, or cement-based grout, needs a sealant while an epoxy or resin-based grout does not. Cementitious grout has a longer useful life, but requires regular upkeep and re-sealing to remain intact.
Epoxy-based grout is easier to care for and resilient in the short-term, but also has a shorter life-span: it needs to be re-applied regularly, whereas cementitious grout won't.

For cementitious grout, choose an impregnating sealer free of silicone. While silicone provides short-term moisture repellant properties, it needs to be applied more often than silicone-free varieties. Silicone versus non-silicone formulas can vary in lifespan between one to three years. When to re-apply depends on the formula, the maintenance of the area, exposure to moisture, and whether or not the area gets heavy traffic. Even the most durable silicone-free grout sealers can wear away in as little as a year in a high-traffic, high-moisture environment. Consult with your client about their needs prior to choosing a grout sealant.

Grout sealant repels moisture and buildup from penetrating the grout itself, but this doesn?t mean that oils, grease, soap scum, mildew, algae, and wax won't build up on the surface of the grout. The biggest problem posed by these substances is discoloration ? a cosmetic issue, but one that affects the overall quality of the installation. Common household cleaners are strong enough to remove surface buildup from grout if used on a regular basis.

Grout Care

If the grout has been left to fend for itself for a long time, a higher quality professional tile and grout cleaner may be needed. Choose a formula low in VOC (volatile organic compounds) and free of toxic chemicals.
The last resort in grout keeping and care is grout stain. Grout stain is an epoxy resin product that penetrates the grout and seals the surface with a permanent pigment. These become necessary when grout is stained beyond the point where it can be returned to its natural color by cleaning or routine maintenance. Clean the grout to remove dirt and debris using a professional strength grout cleaner, then apply the grout stain. Since grout stain is an epoxy-based product, it is not necessary to re-seal the grout using an impregnating sealer ? the stain does that for you.

Other Important Considerations

When grout begins to crumble as the result of moisture (or movement, as is the case with mobile and manufactured homes, or those not built on a permanent foundation), the only choice left is to take up the tile and replace the grout. This is a lengthy, costly, and time-consuming job, and you will encounter more problems than just crumbling grout.

While grout may be the most visible sign of a problem, moisture under the tiles can cause a buildup of mold, occasionally toxic, that may require professional remediation before proceeding. Because of the cost and time involved in replacing grout ? and subsequently the tile and possibly the subfloor that may have been damaged as a result of moisture penetration ? it is important to stress to your clients the necessity of cleaning and maintaining grout to head off problems before they can start.

All About Sandpaper

Imagine a slew of tiny saws and chisels, all working together to strip a surface of debris, old paint, and primer. Each tiny blade working with the next to get the job done. In essence, you've just imagined what a sheet of sandpaper looks like close-up in action.

Sandpaper is just one of the many cutting tools you have in your toolbox, though of course you wouldn?t want to try cutting anything with it ? instead, it's meant to refine and hone a project to perfection.

Of Grades, Grits, and Particles

Not all sandpaper is created equally. Commercial grade sandpaper is the most commonly available type of sandpaper. Commercial grade paper is the sort you'll find at your local hardware store and is typically good enough to handle most projects. Industrial-strength sandpaper is available only through supply houses and is of higher quality than commercial grade paper and can stand up to more rigorous tasks.

But what do the numbers mean? Sandpaper comes in a variety of strengths ? called grits ? generally ranging from 40 to 600. These grits are the measure of how many abrasive particles (think tiny saws) it takes to fill one square inch of the paper. The higher the grit, the more particles are present and the tinier they are, meaning a finer, more polished surface. The lower the grit, the fewer particles are necessary to fill one square inch of paper and the coarser the final product.

Working Through the Grits

A sanding job requires ?working through the grits? ? a term used to describe using increasingly finer sandpaper to smooth the surface of the project. 40-60 grit'sandpaper is considered coarse and is used to remove heavy-duty debris, like leftover paint. 80-120 grit'sandpaper smoothes the surface, removing obvious marks and imperfections. 150-180 is finer sandpaper and is typically used as a final pass before applying sealer or paint. 220-600 is very fine to super fine sandpaper and is typically used between coats of sealer or paint to remove dust flecks, coat imperfections, and as a final buff.

it's usually sufficient to stop at 150-180 grit'sandpaper, unless you're working with very soft woods or a water-based stain or paint. Softer woods, like pine, require finer grits to get a luster and sheen. Water-based stain or paint can pick up even the most minute scratches, dust particles, and imperfections, and thus require a finer grit'sandpaper to look their best.

Beyond the Grade and Grit: Particles

it's not all about grade and grit, though. The grit on sandpaper is also made from different types of particles.

Aluminum oxide, for example, is a common material and makes for a great all-purpose sandpaper. Aluminum oxide has self-renewing properties. When heat and friction are applied to the paper, the grits fragment. Because it is a friable material, aluminum oxide particles will break off to create newer, sharper grits, lengthening the time needed between switching sheets. This makes aluminum oxide suitable for use on wood, plastic, metal, and fiberglass.

Garnet, a natural abrasive, is not friable or self-renewing and wears out faster. Because of this, garnet isn?t suitable for all materials and it is typically reserved for final finishing work. Garnet also produces a finer finish than aluminum oxide of the same grit.

Other materials, such as silicon carbide and ceramic, are also used. These two are harder than garnet and aluminum oxide, but neither is friable and both are comparatively expensive.

While grit, material, and grade are the most obvious differences between sandpaper, manufacturers are increasingly coming up with new and useful types. By putting some thought into your sandpaper choices and use, you can improve the look of your finished project and greatly increase client satisfaction.

Hire an Expert to Save Time and Reduce Your Risk

As a professional, you've undoubtedly seen your fair share of jobs where someone has tried ? and failed ? to fix something on their own, creating frustration for everyone involved and more work for you. These types of jobs leave you shaking your head, wondering how anyone could think to tackle a job they know nothing about, especially when there's a safety risk involved.

This mentality doesn?t always extend to ourselves, however. While it's tempting to try to be the all-knowing, multi-purpose contractor, sometimes you just have to call in another professional to get the job done safely and get it done right.

Why Should I Outsource My Work?

The simple fact is, when it comes to construction, there are a lot of specialties. General contractors tend to know a little bit about everything, but more in-depth jobs require specialized knowledge. For example, if you're working on a whole house remodel and find that the wiring is dangerously out of date ? you know that?s a safety hazard that you shouldn?t tackle on your own ? an electrician is needed to re-wire the house before you can complete construction.

When the health and safety of a building?s occupants is on the line, it's time to swallow your pride and hire a subcontractor. Doing so might be an inconvenience, but it's not close to the inconvenience you?d face if a lawsuit were to result from sub-par work. Both your immediate finances and your professional reputation would suffer.

What If I Really Can Do the Job?

It also pays to outsource your work if you're overbooked. If you find yourself thinking there just aren?t enough hours in the day, it might pay to hire a subcontractor to do some of your work for you instead of asking your clients if they can reschedule. If your job is taking longer than you anticipated, having extra hands on board to finish up portions of the job while you focus on the bigger details can pay off, too.

Hiring someone to do the tasks you dislike can also take the frustration out of your work. So if you hate fencing but your client is requesting a job that requires you to build one as part of the process, you might bring on someone to take care of that fence.

Hiring Experts to Help Your Business

You can be the best roofing contractor in the world and still have little to no aptitude for the business side of things. Even if you can run your business single-handedly, it isn?t always the best way to go. Hiring someone to help with the office-centered aspects of your business is often a smart move.

Accountants and professional tax preparers, for example, are just as expert in their fields as you are in yours. They know the ins and outs of their business and can find ways to help you cut costs, save on taxes and prevent a potentially business-threatening audit. By outsourcing your financial work to them, you're making sure that your business and income are well cared for.

Similarly, an office professional or administrative assistant can make things go easier for you at your main base. If you?d rather focus all of your time, effort and skills on the jobsite, hiring someone to answer phone calls, field questions, deal with paperwork and find new clientele can pay off.

Employees versus Independent Contractors

There are two ways to hire extra help for your business: employees and independent contractors. While there are some similarities between the two, it's important to know the difference, because the benefits you're required to provide to each are different. When it comes to engaging expert help, you'll probably be working with an independent contractor unless you need their services on a permanent or on-going basis.

An employee is someone that you directly hire to work under your business name. You pay their salary and you're responsible for providing them with worker?s compensation insurance and for withholding taxes from their pay. In some instances, you're also required to provide them with health insurance. In short, an employee is someone who is a part of your business and who is your responsibility. A full-time office assistant or a member of your construction crew are employees.

An independent contractor works for his or herself in a freelance capacity, but is working with your business for a designated period. You aren?t required to provide them with benefits, you Don't need to take taxes out of their pay (they'll do that themselves, come tax time), and they aren?t required to have insurance coverage through your business. Someone you contract a job out to, like an electrical contractor or a painter, would probably fall under the independent contractor heading.